Ghana is not just a place, it is a feeling

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In the spring of 2014, I decided to do a semester abroad with my university through the University of California Education Abroad Program (UCEAP). While many of my classmates were submitting applications to study abroad in London, Madrid and Paris, I decided to pursue the road less taken. In my heart, I knew I was destined for Africa. But as vast as it is, I had no idea where exactly to start. At the time, EAP provided programs in Botswana, Ghana and Egypt. By the time I decided I wanted to study abroad, I’d already missed the deadline to apply for the Botswana program and the Egypt program was limited to certain majors. So, Ghana it was! A few weeks later, I received my acceptance letter to study at the University of Ghana, Legon and I was overwhelmed with joy and excitement. But as the pre-departure process began I would soon be filled with doubt from external sources. As I informed family members and friends of my study/travel plans, those feelings of excitement quickly turned into nausea.

The reactions all varied from “wow, you’re so brave!” to “be careful, girl, I heard some shit is going down over there” to “aren’t you scared you’ll catch something?” It was incredibly frustrating to me that people didn’t seem to share my enthusiasm. And I knew, had I decided to go to London, Madrid or Paris the reactions would not have been as discouraging. I began to wonder, had I been hasty in making such an important decision?

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Entrance to the women’s dormitory where I lived for a semester

For many, the continent of Africa is a mystery, making it easy to create generalizations. When people think of Africa, they picture the emaciated poster child often times used by Save the Children campaigns, conjuring images of war, famine and disease. And although this may be the case for a small number of African countries, it is not the same for the vast majority. Africa is extremely diverse – possessing 47 countries (55 if you include the islands off the coast), over 1,500 official spoken languages and dialects and many various religions. These are just some of the factors that influence culture, philosophy, governance, economics, societal values and art in all of these countries.

The city of Accra (Ghana’s capitol), itself, is bustling with activity day and night. The earth is a beautiful redbrick color, the skies are always blue and the people always in high spirits. Ghanaians are some of the most peaceful people I have ever met and the level of hospitality is heartwarming. At the same time, Ghanaians are also extremely hardworking. Many service jobs require long overnight 12-hour shifts. And most clerical jobs often involve waking up at 4:00am daily in order to avoid rush hour or take public transportation. Ghanaians are not afraid to perform backbreaking labor. Simultaneously, Ghana possesses some of the most innovative businesses in West Africa.

I don’t blame anyone for having a misconstrued image of Africa. It is difficult to understand a place you have never been to. My hope is that I can change at least one person’s misconceptions about Africa – easing fears and concerns about safety and encouraging travel to lesser-acknowledged destinations. I have put together a list of recommendations and travel advice – including a few things I wish I’d known prior to my departure (for peace of mind). I hope that I can shine some light on the otherwise mysterious cloud that shrouds the continent of Africa.

 Pre-departure

  • Lets just get this clarified and out of the way: You are not going to die from Malaria!
    • My university’s health insurance only covered half of the daily anti-malaria medication that I was prescribed. I was in a panic because the nurse at the health center told me any anti-malaria medication sold in Ghana is counterfeit. I went through a grueling process of rushing to the local Emergency Room and having my personal insurance cover the remainder of the medication, which also had to be switched to a generic brand. HOWEVER, weeks into my study abroad program I decided to stop taking the medication and never contracted malaria throughout my entire six-month stay. On the other hand, there were kids in the program who took their anti-malaria medication faithfully every day and still contracted malaria

Yes, malaria is common. However,

  • Anti-malaria medicine is extremely easy to find over-the-counter (and affordable) and you don’t necessarily need it pre-departure (which can be very pricey if you don’t have insurance that will cover it)
  • If you happen to contract malaria, it is extremely easy (and affordable) to find treatment over-the-counter. Recovery time is usually 2-3 days (about the same amount of time it takes to recover from a cold or the flu)
    • Signs of malaria: Fever, shivers, nausea, lack of appetite, diarrhea. If you start to feel any of these symptoms, I highly recommend going straight to any corner pharmacy and asking for malaria treatment medication. Usually, people begin to feel better within 12 hours of the first dose and this will reduce recovery time. Make sure to eat properly and take cold showers to reduce fever
  • You will need to show your yellow fever vaccination card upon entrance into Ghana
  • I strongly advise buying a voltage convertor if you plan on using electronics like laptops or home appliances like hair dryers, etc.

Tips for travel

  • Always bargain and negotiate the price! This goes for taxi rides (negotiate fares before getting into the taxi), most articles of clothing, fabric etc. Never just settle for the first price they offer
    • Some Ghanaians can be very pushy when it comes to selling items

 

  • Fruit from street vendors is delicious, fresh, inexpensive and prepared right in front of you!
  • Nightlife in Ghana is amazing
    • For nightclubs, lounges and bars, locals will dress to impress in heels and dresses, etc. However, for daytime, dress modest and appropriate for the weather since it is usually hot and humid year-round: flip flops, etc.
    • Nightlife in Accra does not begin until midnight and will typically last until dawn
  • BUG/MOSQUITO REPELENT!
    • This is also the best way to avoid catching malaria, since malaria is spread by mosquitos
  • Tons of sunblock
  • It is good to have a lot of cash (of course I wouldn’t advise carrying it all at once), especially small bills. Only supermarkets accept credit/debit cards
  • ATMs are fairly accessible and for the most part open 24/7
    • For people who bank with Bank of America – Barclays is a sister branch and will not charge international ATM fees. Otherwise, I suggest signing-up for an account with Charles Schwab, in order to avoid ATM fees
  • Come prepared with your own hygiene products especially (girls) if you normally use tampons, as these items are a bit difficult to find and pricey
  • Almond milk is EXTREMELY over priced, as well as some other imported items like coconut oil, cashews, dark chocolate, etc.
  • Try as many of the local dishes as possible – fufu, banku & tilapia, jollof rice, fried rice, kenkey, indomie, waayke, yam (chips or boiled). (Prepare to put on a few pounds, but its worth it!)
    • Some of these may cause diarrhea/constipation (but its worth it if you want the full local experience!)
    • And don’t be afraid to eat with your hands! (Ghanaians will appreciate your effort)
  • Google Maps is not very useful in Ghana and most locals do not go by addresses/street names. When telling the taxi driver where you are going it is important to know points of references
    • Always agree upon a fare before getting into the taxi
    • It helps to have exact change when bargaining fare price
    • Taxi drivers like to be called “boss” or “boss man”
  • Warning: Local Ghanaian men are quick to profess their undying love/ask for your hand in marriage. Ghanaian women, on the other hand, are typically more conservative/reserved
  • When it comes to trusting locals use your instincts. Some locals are more exposed to foreign influences and cultures than others and can assist you in reducing culture clash/misunderstandings. Overall, most locals are extremely friendly and willing to lend a helping hand
  • Always use your right hand when greeting, shaking hands, picking something up, etc. The use of the left hand is considered bad luck/taboo
  • Ghanaians have a different standard of costumer service. Do not be frustrated or discouraged if the service is slow. It is also common for some of the items on the menu to be unavailable or made differently than described. They don’t share the same “the costumer is always right” philosophy. Patience is very important
  • It is typical for Ghanaians to be behind schedule. So if they tell you they are going to meet you at 2:00pm don’t be surprised if they arrive closer to 3:00pm
  • The official language of Ghana is English and is heavily influenced by its British colonizers. There are nine local tribal dialects spoken all throughout Ghana. Make an effort to pick up colloquial phrases such as “Charley” meaning friend, “Akwaaba” meaning you are welcome/invited and “Obruni” meaning foreigner or white person

Recommendations for Nightlife

Republic Bar and Grill – Osu

Bella Roma nightclub and shisha – Osu

Purple Pub – Osu

Shisha Lounge – Osu

Firefly Lounge – Osu

Coco Vanilla Lounge/Shisha – Adjiringanor/East Legon opposite John Jerry Rawlings house on Argriganor Road

Beaches

Labadi Beach

  • Best during the day on the weekends, or
  • Reggae nights on Wednesday and Friday

Krokrobite Beach

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  • Here you can also shop for beads, fabric, clothing etc.

(it is acceptable to consume alcohol on the beach, and there are often beachside bars that will serve alcohol)

If you are looking to explore beaches outside of Accra, Cape Coast and Ada Foah also offer breath taking beaches

 

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Ada Island offers a variety of clean, warm and secluded beaches and resorts

Recommendations for Food

Philipo’s for banku and tilapia – East Legon opposites Jerry’s bar

Fish and Fries for seafood – East Legon near University of Professional studies

Mama Africa for banku and tilapia – Osu, near Epo’s

Tasty Jerk for kenkey and pork – Osu near Epo’s

Certain foods only available during certain times of the day/week

Fufu (served mainly for lunch)

Agatha’s – Medina near Rawling’s Circle

Bush Canteen – Legon University Campus or East Legon

Asanka Locals – Osu or East Legon

Asaabea – Osu near Cuzzybro’s

Rice balls (Omotuo) Sundays after church

Mawuli – Labadi

  • For these local dishes, bowls of warm water and soap are brought out for guests to cleanse their hands before they begin to consume their meal

For people with sensitive stomachs or prefer more familiar dishes

Epo’s – Osu

Coffee Lounge – East Legon near the AnC Mall

Starbites – East Legon

Burger & Relish – Osu near Shisha Lounge

Goldin Tulip Hotel – near Airport

Barcelos – Accra Mall

KFC – Oxford Street in Osu

Chix and Ribs – AnC Mall

Pizza

Eddy’s Pizza – East Legon

Mama Mia’s – Osu

Papa’s Pizza – East Legon

Sports Bars

Champs (karaoke) – Paloma near Circle

Honeysuckle – Osu and AnC

Cuzzybro’s – Osu

  • Don’t shy away from befriending the locals and asking for recommendations. There are so many more options than just the ones I have listed above

Concluding Thoughts

Ghana is a feeling I wish I could share with everyone. Ghana felt like home in so many ways. I understand that Ghana is only one country in Africa and many African countries are far from the same. But so many of them offer such beautiful cultures and experiences. In Ghana I found love, I found peace of mind, I found thrill and excitement, I found kindness and compassion. I learned to appreciate things that we often take for granted in our high pace society. I learned to slow down. I learned to pause and enjoy a fresh breeze or a cold glass of water on a hot day. If there is anything that I would like my readers to take away with them, it is this – do not be afraid to go beyond your comfort zone. Do not let others discourage you from following your path. There is so much more to gain from taking a risk and following your heart.

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100 Comments

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  1. So glad you enjoyed your stay in Ghana! Interesting read! ☺

  2. Amazing story Stacey! thanks for helping to lift the often prejudiced lid on africa. I am a proud ghanaian and now more proud after reading your story. thank you for sharing!
    Long live ghana, long live mother africa and long live mother earth. We are all one, we are all love!!
    Question: they did not give you a ghanaian name based on the day you were born? lol 🙂

    • Thank you for sharing your feedback, Kwame! As time passes, I miss Ghana more and more. Writing has helped immensely in dealing with the heartache that I experience from being so far away. Please stay tuned for more stories! I am Wednesday born, Yefr3 me Akua 🙂

      • Your story is amazing 😍 I always tell people how hospitable Ghanaians and peaceful Ghana it. I’m an international student in France and the feeling is just opposite unfortunately. People here are not friendly at all and make you feel isolated. You made the best choice, I was also in Volta hall for 2 years when I was in Legon, Ghana just makes 1 feel so much at home.

      • Hi Naana! Thank you for your feedback. I have been to many countries known for their hospitality, including Brazil, and I must say I felt welcomed from the moment I stepped off the plane in Accra. Ghanaians are so friendly and curious, I really enjoyed answering all of their questions and seeing the reactions. Living amongst the locals in Volta Hall made me feel safe. Please stay tuned for more stories! 🙂

      • Sylvester Manson Azane-Kodwo January 13, 2016 — 1:02 pm

        You’ve said it rightly, Ghanaians are friendly and curious. Curious because we like to travel and so always eager to know what is ‘beyond the horižon’. Àm happy you enjoyed your stay.

      • Thank you very much, Sylvester! Please look for my next article this week where I will discuss themes of love, community and music in Ghana. I appreciate the support. Cheers!

  3. Loved this! I know what you mean about Ghana being a feeling…

  4. As a Ghanaian, reading this made me miss home lol. Love it! Please, check out my new blog if you get a chance. Thank you!

  5. reading this made me feel proud of my country. i am glad you enjoyed yourself.

  6. I really enjoyed reading your story about my country.I so much like your sincerity.

  7. Mandela the Kenkey Rebel December 15, 2015 — 11:12 am

    Stacey , you certainly have seen Ghana. You have felt Ghana and thank you telling the world the truth about Ghana. Next time you are in Ghana , let me know so I take you hiking in the deep recesse of the ghanaian jungle or visit http://www.braveheartsexpedition.org. Nice read. Cheers !

    • Hello! Thank you so much for your comment. I studied in Ghana Spring semester 2014 and I missed it so much that I later returned for the holiday season Christmas 2014 turning 2015. I stayed for 10 weeks and cried when I left! I hope to make a 3rd trip to Ghana this summer in June (crossing my fingers). Ghana is a place not easily forgotten and I hold it close to my heart. Stay tuned for more stories! ❤

  8. Woww… exact picture of Ama Ghana! God bless you for this article, Stacey. Love it much.

  9. I am really proud of you and your sincere story about. Come again!

  10. Great story Stacey! I love it when people lift and break down stereotypes about a culture or country. Every place, every culture has beauty and always something to show and teach us. We just have to be open to it. Great experiences come when we decide to walk out of our comfort zone. How else are we to grow as individuals? I have not being to Africa yet….but it keeps calling my name and tugging at my heart.

    • I couldn’t have said it better myself, Ana! I think there are endless opportunities available to us when we approach things with an open mind and abandon expectations. Please look for my new article about Ghana this week. I touch on themes of love and community. I hope my experiences will inspire you to one day take the leap and travel to Africa! ❤

  11. Stacey Good write up promoting Ghana its lifestyle and culture. The people are amazing and lead life to the max. Sincere regards

  12. I enjoyed every bit of the story. As a Ghanaian currently abroad, I could identify with it and especially the joints and places you mentioned. You make a better Tourism minister.

  13. Bless you Stacey. Beautiful and well written article about my country.

  14. great
    your experiences are all true…

  15. Your story made me grin ear to ear. I was an exchange student at KNUST in Kuamsi in the early 80’s and I’ve been going back ever since then. Ghana is more home to me than the U.S. itself, and it’s because of the people. Thank you for sharing your stories.

    • Oh wow how amazing! Your comment just made me super happy. I was only in Kumasi for a day or two during orientation at the beginning of my semester and I remember staying at the King’s Hotel. I wish I could have been there for their Hall Week!! My goal is to spend a few days in Kumasi during my next trip to Ghana. Thank you very much for your comment and please look out for my newest article on Ghana this Thursday. 🙂 ❤

  16. In 2014 I had the opportunity to spend 17 days in Ghana. It is the closest feeling I have had to being in Jamaica. Our group enjoyed the warmth and hospitality of the people. I was so much at home there. We visited the Kakum national park and all the regions of Ghana. We met some of the most beautiful children in Wa and saw Shea butter processed from beginning to end. There was so much to learn at each stop on the trip. I miss Ghana so much. I would love to go back and take my family to share the warmth and culture of Ghana.

    • Lillian, your comment made my heart ache! I’ve also been to the Kakum national park and a few other regions in the western region of Ghana like Tamale and Mole national reserve. I never stop missing Ghana. As much as I try to explain it to my friends and family, people will never fully comprehend it until they actually go. Thanks so much for your support and look out for my next post this week where I discuss themes of love, community and music. Cheers!

  17. Thanks for ur wonderful comments about Ghana ….u are always welcome back.

  18. Wow, Tacy, you were really in ghana.your diction were right on point and there is no other way to capture you lived experience in my country of birth. You made me cry and feel for the next available flight back home for just 2 weeks. Ghana is indeed a feeling!

  19. Everything you have said in this article is on point. You really took time to study the place. I particularly like the part you said “ Always bargain and negotiate the price! This goes for taxi rides (negotiate fares before getting into the taxi), most articles of clothing, fabric etc. Never just settle for the first price they offer”. These make us Ghanaians and personally I am tempted to do same whenever I travel outside Ghana.

    • Thank you so much for your comment! Ghanaians are some of the most business-savy people I have seen. They can sell almost anything, anywhere. I miss seeing Ghanaians with baskets atop their heads on the motorways while I’m in traffic. These are the things that make Ghana magical. Please look for my next article this week where I discuss topics of Ghanaian community and music. Cheers!

  20. stacey mother Ghana will be greatful to you forever
    Keep up the good work.

  21. I enjoyed your article, and I am very happy that you enjoyed your stay in our wonderful country. I would also like to say well done in truely opening yourself up to enjoy Ghana. All your recommendations were right on point,

  22. There are two things Ghana teaches you — to slow down and enjoy life and to live like a human i.e. to relate to people because they simply force you to relate. Ghana is indeed a feeling!

  23. Loved your article! Loved the details about the places to eat and nightlife in Accra. I concur with your recommendations! I am a Ghanaian now living in the diaspora and I am glad you had a great experience in Ghana! Wishing you continued success with the rest of your academic career!

  24. Deep piece….Thank you Stacey….
    Sometimes we as Ghanaians take our country for granted….”Ghana is not just a place,….It’s a feeling. “….wow…..

  25. Stacey, I am glad you enjoyed your stay in Ghana. If you ever want to go back for a visit please let me know. I will offer you three months free accommodation in my house for your stay. I’m a Wednesday born as well. Thanks for sharing your experience in Ghana and your view about Africa with the world.Shalom.

  26. Stacey, so glad to read your article!! I was in Ghana too and felt super identified with the things you comment. Glad you had a great experience as it was the same for me too!! All the best and keep on following what your heart tells you!!

    • Thank you so much! I never stop missing Ghana. It tugs at my heart everyday and I feel that writing about it has been the best emotional outlet. I’m glad to hear you enjoyed your experience as well. Ghana is indeed magical! Happy new year. Cheers!

  27. I left my heart in Ghana and really appreciated reading this , brought back a lot of memories , Ghana us a very special place x

    • Yes! I miss Ghana more and more after every passing day. I’ve found that writing about it has been a good emotional outlet. Please look for my next article this week where I will discuss themes of love, community and music in Ghana. Thank you for your comment. Cheers and happy new year!

  28. Thank you for the light you have shed on my motherland Ghana. I’m getting ready to take a group with me this Summer and this article will help answer some of the questions they might have. You’ve made me fall in love with Ghana all over again. Blessings to you!!!

    • Yes! Thank you very much for your comment. My aim is to shine light on any doubts and fears that foreigners might have before traveling to Ghana/Africa. Please feel free to share and, also, look for my next article this week where I will discuss topics of love, community and music in Ghana. Cheers!

  29. Arafua Apaloo Aning January 14, 2016 — 12:13 am

    Thanks for a well thought out and objective view and report of Ghana. I thank you for adding to the positive conversation abourpt Ghana/Africa.

  30. Akua thanks for sharing your rich Ghanian experience. Consider Kumasi in your next visit. cheers

  31. I can imagine how you enjoyed your stay. i really enjoyed this piece especially the Warning: “Local Ghanaian men are quick to profess their undying love/ask for your hand in marriage”.
    you are always welcome back home

  32. Prudence Batinge January 14, 2016 — 3:36 am

    Akua, we hope you come back again. And when you do, please try the other cities in Ghana eg kumasi, Sunyani, bolga, tamale etc

    Although u enjoyed your stay in Accra, I feel Accra is losing its *Ghanaianess* due to globalization. Lol

  33. When you grow up
    In a place, you typically take it for granted. Reading this article has brought on such a bout of nostalgia for me. Thank you Stacy ! I’m surprised you didn’t mention dumsor(electricity shortage issues) lol. I love the part about Ghanaian men being quick to profess their undying love. So true😂😂 Great article!

  34. Stacey Bravo, I’m glad u enjoyed your stay and thats one of the most interesting article one can find to read, u even know and understand Ghana life more than some of us. If I was your lecturer i’d have given you an A with asterics

  35. Oh wowwwwwww!!!!!!!! Haven’t heard anyone talk so passionately about Ghana before. I’m from University of Ghana (Volta Hall) doing a one year study abroad program in France and I couldn’t even talk about Ghana well enough like you’ve done. You’ve made me appreciate and miss my country and the people even more….really did justice to it. God bless you for taking that leap! Cheers to many more Ghanaian experiences in the years to come.

  36. Wonderful!! This is an amazing story.
    This actually tells the truth on Africa. Many thinkm that Africa is just diseases, malaria, famine. Thank you for explaining to those who have never been down here that Africa has a lot to give, so much that they need to give it a try. It’s cultures ando traditions.

    It’s actually a lively place to be in, a lively atmosphere. In Africa, there’s hospitality, solidarity and many more. Please stop thinking that it’s a continent where there is only war and starved persons. This not true.

    #GiveItATry.
    #GhanaIsAPeacefulCountry.
    #ProudToBeAfrican.

    • Nass, thank you so much for your comment. I completely agree. There are many things that can deter a person from taking a leap of faith and traveling to a new country. I wanted to bring some light to the many unanswered questions that some people have about Africa. Africa is BEAUTIFUL. Life came from Africa, and I think people need to develop a better appreciation for it. Please check out my newest blog post, “My Ghanaian Love Story” where I tell my story of falling in love in Ghana and I also give a playlist suggestion of all my favorite West African songs. Cheers!
      https://travellatina.wordpress.com/2016/01/14/my-ghanaian-love-story/

  37. I’m so glad you enjoyed your stay in Ghana. It really is a beautiful country with beautiful people. You went with an open mind despite being discouraged by so many people. Bless you, Stacey!

  38. Lol ” Taxi drivers like to be called “boss” or “boss man” “. They also like being called “senior man”.
    Ghana is an amazing country. Did you checkout Cape Coast when you went? If not, you should. ☺

  39. It’s always nice to read good things about Ghana, especially from a non Ghanaian.
    This is my version of the “Ghana Feeling”
    https://thatoneguyfromghana.wordpress.com/2015/12/17/that-one-guy-from-ghana-talks-about-ghana/

  40. Thank you for writing such a warm article about Ghana and its people. I have traveled to Ghana twice, on behalf of my foundation, Right To Be Free, and I echo your comments about the warmth and hospitality of Ghanaians. They have a rich culture and it would be a wonderful place for anyone to visit. I have found a deep love for the country and its people and I believe anyone who takes the time to go there will leave feeling the same way.

  41. I absolutely loved your story and also glad that you had a memorable experience in Ghana. I am always sad that people in the 21st century still think of Africa in such a negative way but for me who has worked in the travel industry for close to 20years I am not very surprised. Kudos to you for defying the skeptics and making that journey. Thank you

  42. Am a proud product of uni of ghana commonwealth hall usually call vmates by students and we share alliance with Volta Hall call the VV Alliance.Girl u blast it.Wow u know Ghana more than Ghanaians.I like to encourage u to look for career in Foriegn relations so u become an ambassador.
    We are happy when people are not sterotyping.You were open minded and now you perception about Africa has been enhanced.
    Thanks we love u.I love America n Americans here in NY.

  43. U are the best.

  44. I am glad you liked Ghana and your perception of our continent has changed.

  45. This is one priceless publicity for International Programmes UG and tourism in Ghana. Thank you.

  46. You rock, Stacey Julie!!! Woy3 kikim!!!! I was just clapping while reading. Good job, great worm you are!!!!

  47. chinedushabazz May 5, 2017 — 2:28 am

    i know
    that
    f
    e
    e
    l
    i
    n
    g
    very
    well
    from my own stay in
    God
    Has
    Always
    Needed
    Africa

  48. wow so pleased to read your post..I am leaving for Ghana in two weeks and have come accross the same comments from familyu and friends, although I am older than you .I actually feel so much negativity I was thinking of cancelling trip, then came across this, Thanks

    • Hey Marlene, your comment is exactly the reason why I decided to write about this topic. I’m so extremely pleased you decided not to cancel your trip. Although Ghana has its flaws (as every country does) I think it’s best to judge for yourself as oppose to deciding based on what you see and hear from other sources. I’ll be back in Ghana in August for the 4th time and I cannot wait! Enjoy your trip 🙂

  49. I live in Milan but was happy to see your post because a lot of westerners have such generalized opinion of Africa, much of which stems from ignorance. Even some of my professors make the mistake of thinking there is nothing but war, diseases and poverty in Africa. Ironically some of the few students in my class who actually pay full fees are from Africa. Thank you for your post. It dispels a lot of the ignorance people have concerning Africa.
    P.s. I have also been to Ghana and I love it there. Like you said, the adults and the kids are the most hospitable people I have ever met

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